Mount Katahdin
From Katahdin
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Description and location
These peaks are about about a third of a mile apart, and Baxter, to the northwest, is the higher of the two, the other being the South Peak, rising to 5,240 feet. A long, curved ridge, aptly named the Knife Edge, curves away to the east and northeast, culminating in a rocky pyramid known as Chimney Peak.
Beyond Chimney Peak, separated from it by a high cleft, is Pamola Peak, at 4,902 feet, and Hamlin Peak, to the north, at 4,751 feet, dominates the plateau, which ends in a series of lower peaks, known as the Howe Peaks, ranging from 4,734 to 4,612 feet in height.
Mount Katahdin is within, and is the highlight of Baxter State Park, as well as the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail.
The first people known to have climbed Mount Katahdin were a group of eleven, who climbed the peak in 1804, including Charles Turner, Jr., who wrote an account of the trip.
Since the Appalachian Trail - a 2,174 mile trail from Spencer Mountain (later changed to Springer Mountain) in Georgia, to Mount Katahdin, in Maine - was first conceived in 1921, hikers have been climbing Mount Katahdin regularly. (T3R9 WELS / MT. KATAHDIN TOWNSHIP)
Access and distances
There are a number of ways to access the summits of Mount Katahdin.
Hunt trail
The Hunt trail, a white-blazed trail, denoting the official route of the Appalachian trail, climbs the mountain from the southwest. The trail begins at the Katahdin Stream campground, following the northern side of Katahdin Stream. At 1.1 miles, it passes the trail to Owl Mountain on the left, then crosses Katahdin Stream and, soon after that, there is a sidetrail to Katahdin Stream Falls.
The trail then enters a spruce forest. At 2.7 miles, you'll see two large rocks that form a cave that is capable of providing shelter for up to four people in bad weather. About fifty yards from the cave, there is a spring, although it is sometimes dry.
The trail continues through spruce growth, emerging into a bare, steep crest, known as the Camel's Hump. The trail goes on, winding through large boulders, crosses a wide shelf, and ascends steeply for a half mile over broken rock to the open tableland, at 3.7 miles, where two slabs of rock mark the "Gateway."
Continuing east, following the white blazes, you will come to Thoreau Spring, at 4.2 miles, where you can usually find water. At this point, Baxter Peak Cutoff goes to the left, reaching the Saddle in 0.9 miles. To the right, the Abol trail descends 2.8 miles to the Abol campground, while the Hunt trail continues to ascend northeast for one mile to Baxter Peak.
- Distance to Baxter Peak from Katahdin Stream campground via the Hunt trail
- 5.2 miles
Abol trail
Following a large slide up the southwestern side of Katahdin, the Abol trail is said to be the oldest route to the summit of Baxter Peak.
Beginning at the tote road at the Abol campground, this path crosses through the campground, entering an old tote road, to a tributary of Abol Stream, continuing along the southern bank of the stream for 0.6 miles, then turns to the northeast (right), away from the stream, and then sharply to the right. At 1.3 miles, you will come across a gravel wash of old Abol Slide.
Climb the slide, to reach a more recent slide at 1.9 miles. At this point, the slide becomes steeper and entirely bare.
When you reach the tableland, paint blazes will mark a trail leading 0.1 miles to Thoreau Spring and the Hunt trail. Take that path, turning to the right onto the Hunt trail, continuing northeast through easy slopes to the summit of Katahdin. Many hikers will use the Abol and Hunt trails as a circuit, going up one and down the other.
- Distance to Baxter Peak from the Abol campground via Abol trail
- 3.8 miles
Helon N. Taylor trail
This trail will take you to the summit of Pamola, although it can be used as a starting point to a significantly longer hike, across the Knife Edge, to Baxter Peak.
Much of this trail follows the route of the old Leavitt trail, providing a direct route from the Roaring Brook campground to Pamola Peak, following Keep Ridge, and yielding some of the best views, but it does require almost continuous climbing over rocks and boulders.
Beginning on the Chimney Pond trail, 0.1 miles west of the Roaring Brook campground, the Helon N. Taylor trail climbs a half mile, through mixed growth, to the crest of a ridge, then levels off for a short time before ascending steeply through small birch, entering an old flat burn, and drops to Bear Brook, the only source of water along this trail.
After Bear Brook, the path ascends steeply through scrub, conifers, and a field of boulders, where you can find wide views in all directions. It then climbs through boulders to Keep Ridge, and then along the open ridge to the summit of Pamola.
Along this ridge, you'll have some excelent views of the Knife Edge, and the option to continue along the Knife Edge to Baxter Peak.
- Distance to Pamola Peak from the Roaring Brook campground via the Helon N. Taylor trail
- 3.2 miles
- Distance to Baxter Peak from Roaring Brook campground via the Helon N. Taylor trail and the Knife Edge
- 4.3 miles
Chimney Pond trail
Beginning at the ranger's cabin at the Roaring Brook campground, the Chimney Pond trail follows the old Basin Ponds tote road, ascending west along the southern bank of Roaring Brook, for 0.6 miles, then gradually turns away from the brook, climbing more steeply, and crossing an outlet of Pamola Pond at 1 mile. At 1.9 miles, the trail curves to the left, passing the site of the old Basin Ponds Camp, which was discontinued in 1936. The trail then curves to the right, entering an overgrown clearing at 2 miles, at which point you should be able to see Lower Basin Pond.
Follow the southern end of Lower Basin Pond, and continue along its southwestern shore. At 2.2 miles, the trail turns to the left and goes uphill into the woods. At 2.3 miles the North Basin Cutoff goes to the right, while the Chimney Pond trail continues to the left.
At 2.7 miles, the trail follows the side of a depression known as Dry Pond, which holds water in wet seasons. Shortly after that, at 3 miles, the North Basin trail to Hamlin Ridge and the North Basin cuts off to the right. Continuing on the Chimney Pond trail, you'll find a cabin on the right at 3.2 miles, if it's still there. The trail the descends to end at the shore of Chimney Pond.
- Distance to the Chimney Pond campground from the Roaring Brook campground via the Chimney Pond trail
- 3.3 miles
Dudley trail
The Dudley trail begins at the ranger's cabin at Chimney Pond campground, and leads to Pamola Peak. From the ranger's cabin, go east across the outlet of the pond, go right, climb over some large boulders, and enter the woods. From there, the trail is blue-blazed or marked.
At a point 0.3 miles from the pond, a side trail leads to some caves about 0.7 miles from the Dudley trail. The Dudley trail continues east, where there is a spring thirty feet from the junction. Continuing, the trail will reach a major cleft in the cliffs, and then ascend rapidly south, through a wooded area, where the trail might become difficult due to erosion.
Emerging above the treeline, the trail will be clearly marked, and a well-defined path crosses patches of small trees, the curves slightly to the southwest (right), almost to the edge of the South Basin.
The trail then heads south again, ascending the northern slope of Pamola, around and over some very large rocks. At about 1 mile, you'll pass to the right of Index Rock, which you will be able to see, continuing to ascend, but not so steeply, to Pamola Peak.
If you'd like to reach Baxter Peak from here, continue along the Knife Edge.
- Distance to Pamola Peak from the Chimney Pond campground via the Dudley trail
- 1.3 miles
- Distance to Baxter Peak from the Chimney Pond campground via the Dudley trail and the Knife Edge
- 2.4 miles
The Knife Edge
One of the more popularly spoken of landmarks for hikers, the Knife Edge is a narrow ridge, topping the southern wall of the South Basin. Cliffs drop off to the north, and the southern walls are almost as steep. In places, the Knife Edge narrows to only two or three feet, earning its name. It can be very dangerous in a high wind.
From Pamola Peak, cairns will mark the way southwest, and the path will drop abruptly into the sharp cleft at the top of the Chimney, then ascend the rock tower of Chimney Peak, and from there the path will be obvious, as it passes over the Sawteeth, then ascends the South Peak, and along the rocks of summit ridge to Baxter Peak.
- Distance to Baxter Peak from Pamola Peak via the Knife Edge
- 1.1 miles
Cathedral trail
Three large Cathedral Rocks extend from the summit ridge, separating the South Basin from the Great Basin. The Cathedral trail begins at the ranger's cabin at Chimney Pond campground, where there is a sign marking this trail to Baxter Peak.
Cathedral trail ascends through thick spruce, and then into an evergreen forest. At 0.3 miles, the trail passes by Cleftrock Pool, on the right, and at 0.4 miles, it turns right toward the Cathedrals, crossing a bridge of rock, and ascends through boulders, then into some low trees.
A slide partly obstructed a part of the trail in 1967, but the route can still be followed, as blue blazes mark the way around the obstructions to the right, then up the steep side of the first Cathedral, at 0.8 miles. At 0.9 miles, you'll climb the second Cathedral, continuing along the path to a ridge at the top of the third Cathedral, at 1.1 miles.
Shortly after that, the path will fork, the Cathedral Cutoff leading northwest (right) to the Saddle trail, while the Cathedral trail curves to the southwest (left) over large boulders, joining the Saddle trail at 1.4 miles, 0.8 miles above the Saddle. Then the trail ascends to Baxter Peak, which will be obvious to you.
You can return by the Saddle trail to Chimney Pond, or take the Knife Edge to Pamola Peak, returning to Chimney Pond by the Dudley trail.
- Distance to Baxter Peak from Chimney Pond campground via the Cathedral trail
- 1.6 miles
Saddle trail
Beginning at the ranger's cabin at Chimney Pond, the Saddle trail is the easiest route to Baxter Peak. From the cabin, it ascends a rocky path through some thick woods.
Emerging from the woods, the path curves to the north (left) and becomes smoother as it continues into an evergreen forest, crossing a brook at 0.8 miles, then ascending steeply over some large boulders.
At 0.9 miles, the path curves to the left up Saddle Slide, passing through some birches, emerging a tenth of a mile later, where there is a tough climb 0.2 miles up the loose slope of the slide, reaching the top of the slide at 1.2 miles.
There will then be open tableland, at the Saddle between Baxter and Hamlin peaks. Go to the south (left) in order to reach Baxter Peak, as the Northwest Basin trail, to the right, leads to Caribou Spring, the Hamlin Ridge trail, the North (Howe) Peaks trail, the Northwest Basin, and everything on the northern end of the mountain.
Continuing, to the south, on the Saddle trail, you'll come to Saddle Spring, which sometimes has water flowing among the rocks near the end of the scrub.
The Saddle trail to Baxter Peak continues south, on a well-marked path over gentle slopes. At 1.7 miles, the trail passes a large boulder. On the left, you'll see the northern end of the Cathedral Cutoff, leading to the Cathedral trail; while on the right, will be the eastern end of the Baxter Peak Cutoff, leading southwest along the base of the summit 0.9 miles to Thoreau Spring and the Abol and Hunt trails. At 2 miles, the Cathedral trail from Chimney Pond enters on the left, while the Saddle trail continues to Baxter Peak, which it reaches at 2.2 miles.
- Distance to Baxter Peak from Chimney Pond campground via the Saddle trail
- 2.2 miles
Baxter Peak Cutoff
A hiker can go from one side of Katahdin to the other without climbing over the summit via the Baxter Peak Cutoff, saving 0.7 miles in distance and about 600 feet of elevation.
The trail leaves the Saddle trail 1.7 miles from Chimney Pond, and runs southwest over the open tableland, along the base of Baxter Peak, ending at Thoreau Spring, which is on the Hunt trail, 4.2 miles from the Katahdin Stream campground. Together, these two trails form the shortest route between the Chimney Pond campground and the Katahdin Stream campground, a distance of 6.8 miles.
Hamlin Ridge trail
The Hamlin Ridge trail ascends, mostly in the open, up Hamlin Ridge, which separates the North Basin from the South Basin, offering some excellent views.
Beginning at the Chimney Pond campground, follow the Chimney Pond trail for 0.3 miles, to the North Basin trail, then follow the North Basin trail for 0.4 miles, to the start of the Hamlin Ridge trail.
Following the Hamlin Ridge trail, you'll have a 20 minute climb up to the treeline, then there will be some boulders and the trail will ascend to the backbone of the ridge, following the open ridge to Hamlin Peak.
From there, the trail continues 0.2 miles west across the open tableland, and through a boulder field, to Caribou Spring, which usually has water. To the right, from Hamlin Peak, the North (Howe) Peaks trail runs along the headwall of North Basin, reaching Howe Peaks just short of a mile.
- Distance to Hamlin Peak from Chimney Pond campground via the Hamlin Ridge trail
- 2 miles
North (Howe) Peaks trail
This trail is a route up the northern slope of Katahdin from the Russell Pond area, leading first over North (Howe) Peaks. The official name is Howe Peaks, after Burton Howe, who organized a trip for Percival Baxter in 1920, but it's often known as North Peaks.
The North Peaks trail begins at the Northwest Basin trail 1.2 miles southwest of the Russell Pond campground. At 1.5 miles, it crosses the south bank of Wassataquoik Stream, a crossing that can be difficult or impossible in high water.
After crossing the stream, there is a short but steep slope to the top of a small ridge at the mouth of a brook, where the trail becomes a narrow path through a thick spruce forest, reaching a brook at 2.7 miles, and crossing it about 90 yards later.
The path turns to the west (right) at the foot of a steep rise, away from the western bank of the brook, gradually curving south (left) on a steep incline. At 2.9 miles, it crosses the eastern bank of the same brook, near the foot of a water slide.
The trail continues alongside the slide for a short while before bearing to the left away from the brook, ascending through some large trees.
At 4.4 miles, the trail crosses a brook, which is the last sure source of water, and at 4.6 miles, the path goes into a trench through dense scrub. At 4.9 miles, it emerges into an open tableland.
There will be markers leading to a minor peak (4,182 feet), then down its southern slope and across a stretch of scrub. At 5.2 miles, the path begins its final climb to the North Peaks, reaching the easternmost of the high (4,612 feet), rocky knobs that make up the summit ridge.
The trail then follows the ridge southwest, over other knobs, to the highest point (4,734 feet) on the peak, at the southwestern end of the ridge, at 6.3 miles.
From there, the well-marked trail descends slightly, crossing the tableland. At 6.5 miles, there is a fork in the trail, with the North Peaks trail following the southeast (left) fork, climbing gradually to Hamlin Peak, at 6.9 miles, while the other fork, to the right, is the Hamlin Peak Cutoff, leading to Caribou Spring and the Northwest Basin trail.
- Distance to the first North Peak from Russell Pond campground via the North Peaks trail
- 5.6 miles
- Distance to the second North Peak from Russell Pond campground via the North Peaks trail
- 6.3 miles
- Distance to Hamlin peak from Russell Pond campground via the North Peaks trail
- 6.9 miles
Northwest Basin trail
The Northwest Basin trail ascends from the Russell Pond campground to the Saddle through or past virgin trees, glacial rocks, five ponds, and waterfalls.
Beginning at the Russell Pond campground, the Northwest Basin trail leads southwest, following the Russell Pond trail for 0.1 miles, then cuts right, crossing a dam at the foot of Turner Deadwater at about 0.3 miles.
Entering a wooded area, and joins the route of the old Wassataquoik tote road, at about 0.5 miles. At 1.2 miles, the Northwest Basin trail cuts to the left, with Wassataquoik Stream on its left side. The trail remains on the tote road, ascending gradually, crossing Annis Brook at about 2.5 miles, then crosses a smaller brook and continues through thick woods, crossing Wassataquoik Stream at about 3.6 miles.
Ascending, the trail soon approaches Northwest Basin Brook, and runs along the brook for 300 feet, at about 4.4 miles. The trail ascends steeply to the northern shore of Lake Cowles, then turns left and crosses the outlet of Lake Cowles at 4.7 miles.
Next, the trail climbs to a sheepback rock, where there are some nice views of the basin. Next, the trail continues down to the Davis Pond lean-to, on the north corner of Davis Pond, reaching it at 5.1 miles.
The trail then passes another pond, and goes southwest, then south, and ascends through a steep, difficult stretch up the basin wall and through some scrub brush.
Emerging from the scrub, at 6.2 miles, the trail reaches a small (4,401 feet) peak near the western end of the Northern Plateau, a flat extension of the northern tableland that reaches toward the west, separating the Northwest Basin from Klondike Pond Ravine.
The Northwest Basin trail ascends gradually across the Northwest Plateau, passing through some scrub at about 6.8 miles, moving more to the south across the tableland to Caribou Spring, which it reaches at 7.3 miles.
At Caribou Spring, the Hamlin Peak Cutoff leads sharply left to the North Peaks trail, while the Hamlin Ridge trail curves to the left (east) to Hamlin Peak. The Northwest Basin trail descends south to the Saddle, reaching it at 8.3 miles.
- Distance to the peak of the Northwest Plateau from Russell Pond campground via the Nortwest Basin trail
- 6.2 miles
References
- Globe Pequot Press, "Maine Mountain Guide", 8th Edition, Appalachian Mountain Club, 1999
